Trains, no planes & automobiles: Sleeper trains in Europe
Discover two overnight train journeys: from Bucharest to Moldova and from Turkey to Georgia aboard the iconic Doğu Ekspresi. Plus, explore an extensive list of must-try European night trains.
My first overnight train journey was from Arnhem to Munich, on my way to the snow in Austria with my family. It was fun sharing a couchette with my grandparents, uncles, and aunts. Unfortunately, this train was cancelled due to the increasing popularity of low-cost airlines, as happened with many other sleeper trains in Europe.
The longest train journey I’ve taken was the Trans-Mongolian Express. The first leg, between Moscow and Novosibirsk, took more than 60 hours. I learned that you quickly adjust to life on a train; the ultimate slow travel.
More and more people are starting to realise the environmental cost of flying - and interest in train travel is increasing rapidly. In the last few years, there has been a revival of European night trains, with new routes and trains introduced every year!
There’s something nostalgic about train travel, and I feel it too, as I’m describing two trips I took in 2014 and 2015 in this post.
By train from Turkey to Georgia (and to Baku)
We travelled by train and bus from Istanbul to Georgia, and eventually to Baku. There is a convenient high-speed line between Istanbul and Ankara. The main part of this train journey, however, is the Doğu Ekspresi to the eastern part of Turkey. This train is like a gift that keeps on giving—one beautiful landscape follows another.
At Ankara Central Station, we have to wait before boarding the train. I try to get us into the Turkish train VIP lounge, but after sneaking in illegally through the back entrance, I hear a stern "No" followed by "Go, go now, ksssst", and I have to leave through the main entrance.
After departing, the dining car opens. We want to order, but according to the bartender, the beer is still warm. We can wait. Meanwhile, the chef is busy chopping onions, while the bartender has his protégé folding napkins-he does it with a long face.The landscape we speed through keeps changing, and the next morning reveals again just how stunning Turkey is. To get a better view, we sit in the dining car and finish off the train’s supply of Ayran.
We disembark at Erzurum, where there are supposedly buses to Sarp, near the Georgian border. At the time, there are none. We decide to take another bus for two-thirds of the journey and then find a taxi to the border.
The border crossing is busy but very efficient. Güle Güle, we’re out of Turkey—and Gamarjoba, into Georgia. Sarp is called Sarpi here, and we take a taxi to Batumi. The driver speaks hardly English, and after a few phone calls, his daughter joins us halfway through the journey. She is still in secondary school and speaks a bit of English.
After our stay in Batumi, we took the train to the charming Georgian capital, Tbilisi. The journey takes 5 to 6 hours and runs several times daily. Tbilisi has a lot to offer (including great restaurants and cosy cafés) and is a good starting point for exploring other beautiful parts of Georgia, such as Kazbegi and Davit Gareja, to name a few.
Some insights:
The Doğu Ekspresi is so popular that the Turkish Train Company introduced the Turistik Doğu Express a few years ago, with slightly different price ranges (read: more expensive).
The original Doğu Ekspresi still has couchette cars (select the ‘Örtülü Kuşetli 1.Mevkii’ class) – but they tend to sell out fast. You can book 30 days prior to departure, so make sure to check the official booking website or app regularly. (This blog has some useful tips.)
You can travel to Istanbul by train from other parts of Europe; there are multiple options for doing so. Check this article by the Man in Seat 61.
Georgia is a beautiful country, and I definitely want to return.
There used to be a daily sleeper train from Tbilisi to Baku, but no direct train has run since the pandemic unfortunately. You now need to cross the border by car or taxi.
Travel back in time between Bucharest & Chişinău
What, where? Chişinău is the capital of Moldova, a small country nestled between Romania and Ukraine. It’s not a well-known country and certainly not a typical tourist destination. You could combine it with a trip to Romania.
There is an overnight train between Bucharest and Chișinău. Because Moldova was part of the Soviet Union, the train carriages need to have their undercarriages changed at the border. The railways in the former USSR are broader than those in Europe and China – they call it the Russian gauge (a bit of train jargon here).
The train itself - the Prietenia, which means friendship - radiates nostalgia in every way; the compartments are charmingly retro, and the buffet serves simple, classic Eastern-European snacks. It’s almost like travelling back in time.
For your Moldovan itinerary:
Chişinău has so many restaurants and cafés that it would take months to try them all, making the city centre very lively. You can visit corny theme restaurants or more traditional ones. We liked La Placinte, a typical eatery serving local dishes like plăcintă (a savoury or sweet pie), salads, and cheap wine.
Visit the longest wine cellar in the world at Mileștii Mici (200 km long!) – you can even drive through it and enjoy a wine tasting. Also, Cricova is one of the famous wineries in Moldova.
At the very least, pay a visit to the historical site of Orheiul Vechi (try to pronounce that). Besides the stunning landscape, there is an interesting cave monastery to explore.
Due to the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war, many governments advise against all travel to Transnistria*.
*Transnistria is a dissident strip of land between Moldova and Ukraine, where Lenin still stands on a pedestal. They have their own rouble, the embassies of Abkhazia and South Ossetia, and a wealthy company with shadowy ties to the KGB that holds significant power: Sheriff. The capital, Tiraspol, feels like a time capsule, with flashes of bygone eras and an almost surreal sense of nostalgia.
Romania tips:
There is a night train between Budapest and Bucharest: the Ister Night Train. Read the review.
From Bucharest, you can take the train towards Brașov, from where you can embark on a trip through Transylvania. It’s a breathtaking region, and with a rental car, you can drive along the Transfăgărășan Highway.
Overnight train suggestions in Europe
The European Sleeper between Brussels and Prague offers a new temporary route between Brussels and Venice, with stops at winter sport destinations like Innsbruck and Bolzano. It only runs in February and March 2025 and includes a restaurant car. Bookings are now open.
ÖBB Nightjet brought back the European sleeper trains, and their network is growing. Check the railway map (PDF) for current routes to and from Austria, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland. Also interesting: Nightjet has introduced their new generation of trains, including mini cabins (which are going viral on travel-related social media).
With EuroNight, ÖBB offers additional night trains across Europe in partnership with other railways. How about routes like Stuttgart – Zagreb, Warsaw – Munich, Zurich – Prague, and Budapest – Berlin? Book through the ÖBB site.
Also new is the Snälltåget night train on the route Berlin – Copenhagen – Stockholm. These trains run seasonally between April and November and during the Christmas markets. Next year, it will be operational from 11th April 2025.
Night trains in France? Yes, there are. You can travel from Paris to the south (to regions like the Pyrenees, Alps, and Côte d’Azur) with Intercités de Nuit. See the route map here. Bookings are available through the SNCF website (select Intercités de Nuit as the type of train).
On social media, you might come across the Dolce Vita Orient Express, hailed as the best sleeper train journey ever. It is beautiful, yes, but also extremely expensive. As an alternative, you can take the Espresso Cadore from Roma Termini to the Dolomites in summer and winter.
The same goes for the very classic British Pullman. Consider travelling on the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Scotland year-round. (Recommended Substack read: From the Caledonian Sleeper to the West Coast of Scotland).
Generic tips
I can’t stress this enough: book well in advance.
Subscribe to the newsletters of train companies and Interrail to stay updated about discounts, especially with Black Friday coming up.
I think this night train map of Europe is very useful (and also well-designed). The same initiative has a good page on ‘How to book night trains’.
Watch, read or listen
I’m glad the movie Hytti nro 6 (Compartment No. 6) is on The Guardian's list of the top 20 best films set on trains. It perfectly captures the atmosphere of a long train journey.
The wonderful book The Eighth Life (for Brilka) by Nino Haratischvili is a multigenerational family saga set against Georgia's turbulent 20th-century history.
ARTE.tv offers a documentary about that peculiar piece of land in Moldova. You can watch Transnistria: Back to the USSR on YouTube.
Georgia has a truly unique cuisine, and from the moment we tasted Khachapuri and Khinkali, we became instant fans. You can read more about the food on this website.
Chuck Norris vs Communism! Yes, the title says it all. I saw this great documentary at the IFFR years ago and enjoyed it immensely. It’s about illegal Western films (like Rocky) in Communist Romania. You can watch or buy it online—you won’t regret it.
My journey as a travel writer
Part 5
So, what are you writing about? What can we expect? I’m definitely going to buy the book!" I hear this a lot. Meanwhile, I’m rewriting, reading, rewriting again, and constantly doubting. Thankfully, there are some helpful posts like this one (sorry it’s in Dutch) about the process.
Writing takes countless hours—much like travelling. No one knows exactly how to travel when they begin, no matter how much advice or content is out there. You just have to start, and you’ll master the journey along the way.
This is such a helpful post! I really want to do more night trains, but it’s hard trying to find information even on what routes exist. I am bookmarking this to keep handy whenever I’m in planning mode.