Let's go Outside: Hiking it is
Escape to nature. Walking or hiking is possible almost anywhere. Discover some great suggestions for your itinerary in the Balkans, Wales, and Seoul.
I’m not sure what it is about this year, but I’ve noticed that a lot of people are into hiking. Several of my friends (coincidentally all women) have undertaken solo hikes, and my Instagram and Strava feeds are flooded with pictures of families with children on trails. It’s probably a reflection of my age and the people I know.
I also have some friends who are hardcore mountain enthusiasts, the kind who were into trekking long before it became a midlife health trend. But it’s not just those approaching midlife who are into hiking—people of all ages seem to be getting out there. Maybe it’s a pandemic aftereffect. Or perhaps it’s just a grown-up thing to do.
When I was a child, we would go for a walk every Sunday in one of the forests in Twente (NL). My favourite was the one with the watermill, mainly because there was a restaurant that served hot chocolate—a perfect treat after a walk. Even as a teenager, I enjoyed walking, though not necessarily every Sunday.
The first time I realised I needed proper hiking shoes was on a glacier near Ushuaia in Argentina. My trainers were manageable in parts of Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, but definitely not on the glacier.
Since then, my relationship with hiking has been somewhat complicated. I’ve been overtaken by grannies in flip-flops in Sarangkot (Nepal), navigated mudslides in Sapa (Vietnam), cursed the rocky slopes in Langar (Tajikistan), and questioned my hiking plan on a windy Monday morning in Wales.
But hiking can be incredibly rewarding—I know! Reaching the summit, being surrounded by nature, following good trails, and taking in those beautiful views.
And it’s so simple. Hiking (or walking) is a great activity to enjoy while travelling. All you really need is a good pair of shoes. And good weather.
Wales by train
Like many other middle-aged women, I found myself embarking on a solo hike. Just for a day. A rainy day. But, hey I was in the United Kingdom, after all.
When I visited London this year (that trip by train), I also wanted to spend a day and a half in Wales. I know – it was a bit short, but it was early March: cold, windy, and rainy. I think there are other months in spring or autumn more suitable for this.
I decided to visit Cardiff, the capital of Wales, to see the castle and do some outdoor activities nearby. I took a local train to Taff’s Well for a day hike, combining two routes I found on Komoot. At one point, I found myself on top of a green hill with the wind blowing harshly from the seaside, bringing with it extra raindrops. I also stepped in some mud. You can imagine I was fantasising about hot soup in a cosy cottage, but unfortunately, the local pub was closed that Monday.
By the way, Cardiff Castle is worth visiting. As it was very low season, there were hardly any other people there. Also, no royals.
Some tips for Wales:
Of course, there are many more walking and hiking options in Wales. Visit the official website for lots of suggestions.
You can take a train from London Paddington Station to Cardiff with Great Western Railway. There are also trains from London Euston to Newport in Wales. More information is available on this site.
Transport within Wales is very easy and there are plenty connections – you can check the map of Transport for Wales here.
Book local train tickets on fw.wales (it looks & works much better on a mobile device)
As I was told by a lady who worked there, the guided tour of Cardiff Castle is really interesting, and you get to see some additional rooms as well. Unfortunately, I was too late for the tour.
Hiking & walking in Seoul
Hiking is almost a national sport in Korea. On nearly every trail, you’ll spot people of all ages, as it seems everyone is obsessed with staying healthy. And they also do it for fun. The country has amazing national parks and mountains perfect for hiking.
Around Seoul, there are several great options for a hike or a walk. I received these suggestions firsthand from someone I know in Seoul. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to try them all (as Seoul was just the starting point for our trip in South Korea*), but I’m sharing them with you anyway.
*By the way, I’ll be covering autumn in South Korea in the next newsletter.
For your itinerary:
Inwangsan Mountain (인왕산): Koreans might call this a hill, but as a Dutch person, I considered it a mountain. The view from the top is stunning, and on your way down, you can visit Seo Village (서촌) and Gyeongbokgung Palace (경복궁) on the same day.
Bukhansan Mountain (북한산): This vast national park near Seoul is perfect for a day hike or even longer. More info: Bukhansan National Park
Gwanaksan Mountain (관악산): Now, this is a proper mountain according to my source. He also mentioned, "If you make it to the Yeonjuam Hermitage (연주암) between 12-13 on weekdays, you might just get free bibimbap."
Seoul Forest (서울숲): A small forest in Seoul with cafés and restaurants nearby, perfect for a Sunday afternoon stroll.
Seoul Tower (남산): The iconic landmark of Seoul. It may be a bit touristy and corny, but it's still fun. We took the cable car up and walked down towards the wonderful Leeum Museum of Art.
The Balkans
We did a day hike in the Tara Mountains in Serbia. (I wouldn’t recommend relying on the information office in Mitrovac; use a navigation app on your phone instead.) After reaching the top and taking in the magnificent view, we began our descent.
The trail started off quite well, but after a while, it looked as if it’d been trampled by a convoy of aggressive tractors. Further on, we noticed some prints on the path. We paused—could they be from a dog? No, also no hooves, so not a deer. Perhaps a bear? We took a photo and continued our walk.
A little later, we settled down with a Serbian pint and some snacks, enjoying yet another beautiful view. We showed the photo of the print to the waiter. He said, "Oh yes, that’s from a bear. A pretty fresh print too. Very normal here—bears are everywhere. But no need to worry; they’re more afraid of you."
More hiking in the Balkans:
Serbs themselves often go to neighbouring Montenegro for better hiking opportunities.
Croatia’s islands aren’t just about that holiday feeling by the blue Adriatic—they’re also great for hiking. Take Mljet, with its beautiful national park, or even the more touristy Hvar. Have a taxi drop you off at Velo Grablje (absolutely stunning!) and then hike back to Hvar Town or Stari Grad.
Northern Albania is a popular hiking destination, particularly in Teth and Valbona, with Shkodra as the base for these adventures.
Slovenia boasts quite a few mountains, offering plenty of options for hiking, winter sports, and cycling (some excellent cyclists hail from this country).
Watch, read or listen
Writer Ben Buckland set out to walk across Switzerland without a smartphone or a planned route. Instead, over 12 days, he used maps hand-drawn by people he met along the way. Read about his journey.
During my research on solo hiking and trekking, I came across the Solo Female Wanderer blog, which features fantastic hiking trips and tips from Norway, Austria, and other European countries.
I use Komoot for creating cycling routes, and it’s a very good tool for planning hiking routes as well. Getting started with Komoot is free, but if you want to unlock multiple regions, you’ll need to purchase a one-time upgrade. I recommend the World Pack for this.
Why you shouldn’t be tempted to do some rock-stacking on your next hike.
Listen: A top-10 of hiking podcasts.
What’s the difference between walking, hiking, and trekking (and there are even more terms). I think this article explains it quite clearly.
Read more about Koreans’ enduring passion for hiking in this interesting article, as well as how they continue to pursue hiking in California.
If you’re interested in Seoul, you might enjoy watching some beautiful films set there, such as Past Lives (on Prime) or Return to Seoul. I assume (or hope) everyone has already seen Parasite; you can check out some of the locations featured in the film.
My journey as a travel writer
Part 3
I’m a bit out of practice. I had planned to post every three weeks, but there’s been a slight delay—though for a very good reason.
I had this romantic notion that I’d have time to write while in Paris during the Olympics. I didn’t. First of all, I fell in love with the Olympics and the incredible atmosphere. And secondly, my Airbnb in Montmartre was like a sauna, so that romantic idea quickly turned into a rather sweaty experience. So no, I fully immersed myself in Paris 2024 for nearly a week.
The three-week schedule is mostly a personal goal, to help me establish a routine and maintain some discipline—which I know I could use. But when I sat down at my laptop last Friday, I found it a bit challenging to get started, so I gave myself an extra week.
After sending out my latest newsletter, I received feedback about a mistake. It’s a common one, and I can’t blame it on just a typo. I did double-check the entire post but overlooked the subject line. Fortunately, I was able to correct the online version, but not the one already delivered to your inboxes.
I appreciate all feedback, even when it points out silly mistakes. So please, keep it coming!