Wine & Dine: Surprisingly Beautiful Destinations
Wine regions make great travel destinations. Explore unique wine regions in Slovenia, Hungary, Japan, Serbia, and The Netherlands.
I’m just back from my trip to Japan and already heading to Lille for the yearly Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants. It’s the season for it - straight after wine month October, and with the arrival of the new Beaujolais primeur. Autumn really is the time for mushrooms, cheese, and wine.
Wine regions and wineries are great travel destinations, even if you’re not into wine. As a European, I’m spoiled with amazing wines. Beyond regions in countries like France and Italy, there are many other places to explore.
The Vipava Valley in Slovenia
During our trip through Slovenia and a part of Croatia, we wanted to visit Hiša Franko (totally influenced by the Chef’s Table episode). Unfortunately, they couldn’t do a vegetarian menu at the time (they do now), so we looked for an alternative in the west of Slovenia.
The beautiful Vipava Valley, part of the Primorska wine region, has amazing wines and food. After tasting some Slovenian wines in Ljubljana, we knew what to expect. (Slovenia has a long tradition in winemaking by the way.)
We stayed at Majerija, surrounded by vineyards. It was great to have a glass of wine on the terrace right next to where it’s produced. The dinner was delicious, featuring locally grown vegetables and ingredients and paired with excellent local wines. The sommelier shared tips on nearby wineries, which we explored the next day.
After dinner, the host invited us for a digestive tasting in his cellar. Other guests joined too. The cellar was packed with bottles of rakija and liqueur. Some of the men looked as excited as kids in a sweet shop.
The Vipava Valley makes a perfect stop on a road trip through Slovenia, even if you’re not into wine. It’s recommended to use a (rental) car in this region for ease of exploring.
Wine tasting in Cambodia
A Cambodian winery — yes, it exists. (There are also wineries in Vietnam, in Dalat.)
Our visit was part of a day with a tuk-tuk driver in Battambang (such a fun day!). When we arrived, we bumped into a group of French tourists, mostly over 60. It’s not surprising to see those groups, especially in former French colonies (perhaps they’re checking the current status of the baguettes).
We had a brief look around before heading to the terrace for a tasting. It was amusing to see how the French would react to this attempt at wine-making. Seated next to me was an elegantly dressed French woman (you know the type, with that je ne sais quoi). I asked her in my best French what she thought of the wine. Her expression said it all, and her words were even clearer: “This is not wine.”
We couldn’t agree more.
The Tokaj in Hungary
From Budapest, we travelled by train to Mád, a village in Hungary’s Tokaj wine region. It’s the heart of the area, with vineyards and wineries scattered across the surrounding hills.
Our wine tour started that evening at a local winery. The guide is a true enthusiast of Tokaj wines. After a thorough introduction to the history of Tokaj wines and their grapes, Furmint and Hárslevelű, the tasting finally began.
Although Mád is Tokaj’s hub, it’s not busy; we had to search for an open restaurant, likely due to the off-season. Sitting outside, we enjoyed a Furmint blend, an “entry-level wine,” as our guide called it.
The next day, we visited more wineries, including a small, rustic one run by a hobby winemaker. It was a stark contrast to the professional cellars we’d seen earlier, with just a simple shed, a few barrels, and some hoses. Our guide had another gig, but we were also welcome to join. More tasting? Yes, please.
After the bonus tasting, we walked through Mád. Somewhere up the hill, there’s a terrace overlooking the vineyards. The host asked if we needed any explanations about the wine. “No, thanks,” we said; we knew it all by now.
Train travel in Hungary is easy and fun. You can buy tickets directly on mavcsoport.hu/en
For wine tours, I can recommend travel.tokajtoday.com
Wine Ideas for Your Itinerary
Serbia, like many Balkan countries, has some pretty good wines. You can spend a night at Vinarije Tarpoš. Don’t expect fine dining, but the location and wine make it worth visiting. It’s not far from Topola, where you’ll find the Church of St. George with the stunning crypts of the Karadjordjević royal family. In Belgrade, you can try new Balkan cuisine with local wines at Tisa. (You also can go hiking in Serbia; check this post.)
In Moldova, you can find the longest wine cellar in the world and taste some lesser-known wines. Read more about this country in my post about sleeper trains in Europe.
We Dutch also have some wines. The southern part of Limburg is particularly known for them, and it’s a beautiful area to visit. A good starting point is Eyserhalte, a shop full of fresh delicacies and local wines. And while you're in the region, Maastricht has some great restaurants serving local wines. I especially liked Onglet, located at the back of a butcher’s shop.
Wine in Japan? Yup. I visited the Furano Winery in Hokkaido on a bicycle a few weeks ago. They had free tastings and coin machines (it is Japan, after all) for proper sampling. Of course, there’s a shop for wines and souvenirs. Lavender is big in this area, as you’ll notice from the purple-themed goodies—but I wouldn’t recommend the lavender coffee. Furano wines are also sold at Furano Market, where you can find local cheese as well.
Watch, read, listen & for your agenda
I think the ultimate wine movie is Sideways. But there are more films and documentaries about wine available on streaming platforms—check this list.
The French sommelier Philippe Faure-Brac pairs wines and cheeses (all French, of course) in this Instagram post.
Speaking of cheese; for my Dutch-speaking readers, I recommend the Kaas podcast.
The Vignerons Indépendants (Independent Winemakers) organise Salons across France (in cities like Lille, Paris, and Lyon). It’s serious business—expect event floors packed with 500+ winemakers from all over France. Check the calendar!
My journey as a travel writer
Part 7
“So, did you work on your writing in Japan?” a friend asked me yesterday. Yes, I did—but not the whole time. I was also travelling and enjoying the country.
Sometimes I preferred staring out of the window and listening to podcasts instead of focusing on my laptop screen. Travelling is wonderful, and I love writing about it, but I also want to savour the journey itself—to think about things, or sometimes think about nothing at all.
Now I’m back, full of energy and full of ideas!